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Testaccio’s No-Nonsense Sandwich Counter Worth the Queue

Mordi & Vai is a fast, flavor-first sandwich spot inside the Nuovo Mercato Comunale di Testaccio in Testaccio, Roma. People come here for panini that actually deliver—think juicy meatballs, sausage, and veal tucked into crusty bread, served with quick, friendly efficiency.

Order at Box 15 and you’ll see why Mordi & Vai gets talked about like a local obsession: the meatball panino is rich and saucy, the sausage is properly seasoned, and the veal option hits that comforting, “I should’ve ordered two” note. Service is brisk, and they’ll even cut your sandwich in half if you’re sharing—handy when you want to sample more than one filling without committing to a food coma. For Roma street food, this is the kind of simple, satisfying bite that doesn’t need hype.

Value-wise, it’s the antidote to overpriced “market snacks.” You get a hearty portion for a sensible market-stall price—more lunch than “tasting.”

Insider tip: Go a little before the lunch rush and ask to split one sandwich—then grab a second filling to try while you’re ahead. Do it.

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4.8
1,052 reviews
  • Simon Messner
    Simon Messner
    in the last week

  • Danio Piccinini
    Danio Piccinini
    2 weeks ago

    If you're looking for an authentic Roman gastronomic experience, traditional panini are a must-try. These sandwiches, made with fresh, authentic ingredients, represent the heart of Roman cuisine. Among the various options, the panino with boiled meat and chicory is undoubtedly one of my favorites. The tenderness of the boiled meat, combined with the crunchiness and slightly bitter flavor of the chicory, creates a perfect balance that captivates the palate. The freshness of the bread, always crunchy and fragrant, completes this delicious combination. Don't forget to try the panino with picchiapò, with its rich flavor and hint of tomato, and the one with meatballs, which is a true comfort food, hearty and enveloping. Every bite is a journey through the flavors of Roman tradition, and every panino tells a story of passion and authenticity. In short, if you're in Rome, you can't miss the opportunity to savor these delicious sandwiches: every choice promises flavor and satisfaction, with the sesame and chicory sandwich standing out as my undisputed favorite!

  • Alex Heffesse
    Alex Heffesse
    2 weeks ago

    Excellent sandwiches!!

  • Mattia Zanetta
    Mattia Zanetta
    3 weeks ago

    siamo stati qui durante il nostro giro al Mercato di Testaccio. ci ha attirati, nonostante ci fosse moltissima scelta all'interno. la scelta ha ripagato, panini spettacolari. molti gusti disponibili. buoni prezzi, personale gentile. di fronte, ha una zona dedicata per mangiare. consiglio vivamente!

  • Alexia Biscocho Encarnacion

    I had the Allesso sandwich, very good and with excellent chicory!

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